Posted: 07/19/2008 7:37:09 PM
I went to the dealer today to talk to them about brakes. Both discs have some pretty decent grooving, plus the rear is slightly blue too. I measured them and they both have about 0.010" left. Anyway the dealer wanted $430.00 for the front and rear discs plus pads for both ends. The bike has 5300 miles on it, for those that have the same or more miles how long did your factory brakes last? I spent the last hour looking on the Internet trying to find an aftermarket source but should first find out what other folks are using and if there is room for big improvement in either performance or longevity. I don't want to get a larger diameter front disc. Any response is appreciated.
Reply by ALS650L on 07/20/2008 07:07:27 AM
I have almost 10k on my 06 XR650L and haven't had to do anything to the brakes yet. I bought front pads but have a probably a couple thousand miles left on the originals. No need to replace rotors either. Have you tried eBay for parts?
Reply by flatfender on 07/20/2008 08:11:02 AM
Have you mic'd your rotors yet? I'd be interest in how much thickness you have left after 10K miles. I've tried ebay but only found used rotors attached to $200 rims. When I search for parts I use ebay > ebaymotors > motorcycles > XR650L and I'm assuming that everything for an XR650L will come up. However I have used that search and then went to ebay > ebaymotors > motorcycles > Honda > search XR and combed through all XR listings and found bikes that didn't come up in the first search. Anyway I know there is a world of aftermarket brakes for muscle cars jeeps and four wheel drive rigs is there anything like that for dirt bikes? Like HD slotted rotors with Kevlar or ceramic brake pads. Can the rotors be turned, mine have 'within specs' run-out just grooving and glazing?
Reply by cracked junior on 07/20/2008 09:19:11 AM
online retailers have rotors for just under $100. brake pads range from $14 to $32. depending on brand and what material. so looking around $250-ish.
just under 6000 miles, front have about half lefted, rear looks brand new. i started using my rear brake more to even out the pad wear.
Reply by roninB4 on 08/19/2009 06:49:30 AM
Almost anything can be machined, rotors included no matter what anybody else says. If you have runout, though still within "specs" you'd have to know just how much the runout is and will they still be within specs AFTER machining. The simplest way is to take a dial indicator to the rotors while it's still mounted to the wheel. Whatever the runout is, .010 for example, the minimum amount of material needed to be removed will be double (for that same .010 runout it will be .020). That's just to remove the runout, if there's any scoring, ploughing, grooves then more will be required. What thickness will you have left after all this? Rotors can be a PITA to cut, depends upon what they're made of. I would be a bit wary of low cost replacement rotors that are on Evil-Bay. Sure the price is tempting but they are most often made in China (not knocking the country here) with questionable materials and tend have the potato chip factor (warp) appear much sooner in the heat cycle range than they should. It's all about skipping a process or using inferior materials during manufacturing. This is just my opinion based upon 25 years as a toolmaker, your results may vary.
Reply by jjones006 on 08/19/2009 2:58:57 PM
there is EBC that for sure has stock (front about $100, rear $105) and over sized rotors for the XR650L and MSR has rotors but not sure if they have them for the XR650L? there is also Braking USA has stock size rotors for the rear $175, there are lots of aftermarket pads out there. I have a EBC over sized rotor for the front ordered and waiting. I'm going with the stock Honda brake pads since it seems they do the best for not squealing and good brake feel from what I have been reading.
Reply by madmac650 on 08/23/2009 1:42:03 PM
You guys actually use your brakes? I'll have to try those some time. 8K miles, not even close to needing brake work. Recently changed to Castrol full synthetic brake fluid... thats it. Would have to agree with roninb4 about the Chinese parts. Buyer beware.
Reply by b_king on 08/29/2009 06:03:30 AM
Another option would be to simply just replace the pads with a quality sintered metal pad. I'm not sure whether or not it comes from the factory with those. Most motocross and enduro bikes do, but considering this is a dual sport, they may have put organic pads on it. The sintered pads would offer a much longer life because they hold up well to debris such as sand and dirt mixing with the pad material. As opposed to organic pads which break down more easily with the addition of sand and dirt.
Reply by flatfender on 09/09/2009 2:11:27 PM
After replacing the original organic pads with EBC sintered or semi-metallic pads I no longer have any reason to eff with the brakes, so much better re: fade and feel. On my after work 'relax' ride there is a long downhill with a stop sign at the bottom, no one ever around so it's a good stretch to nail the throttle and get the speedo well past 90, then there's the stop sign. The brakes get better and better the more you're on them. Well spent $50, makes the stock pads seem (unsafe) IMO.
A word on safety:
- sintered pads, if used to their potential, will heat your rotor and caliper to temperatures unattainable with stock organic pads
- brake fluid by nature attracts moisture
- water boils at 212 degrees at sea level
- boiling water turns into air vapor
- air vapor in your brake line is bad
- change your brake fluid every year or when it starts to get color
I recently did brake and shock fluids and also installed a braided steel line on to maximize feel and performance. That has made a difference especially when you want to grab hard. I can now do 'front stoppies ' ie brake hard enough to get rear off the ground, it wouldn't do that before with my old front line... it always went spongy. A relatively cheap mod, that improves things.
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