- Lay the rear wheel sprocket side down and the front wheel brake side up.
- Remove the valve core and loosen the rim locks.
- Stand the wheel up and use the flat side of a tire iron to push the rim locks down, breaking them loose from the tire bead.
- Lay the wheel down again and stand on the tire sidewalls with your feet pushing to break the beads loose from the rim. Sometimes a little soapy water at the tire/rim junction helps loosen the beads.
- With the brake side of the wheel up, use the spooned end of your tire irons and insert them between the bead and rim. Insert them on one side of the valve stem or the other. Lever one at a time, working your way around the tire in small increments.
- After the first side is removed, push the valve stem into the rim and pull the tube all the way out.
- If your wheel has rim locks, remove them before beginning removal of the second bead.
- Remove the second bead by inserting a tire iron under the bead of the brake side of the wheel, then lever the tire bead over the rim and push it off.
- Clean the bead area of the rim. Check the rim locks, rubber rim strip or tape covering the spoke nipples for damage.
- Before installing, set the tire out in the sun for an hour to make it more pliable.
- Install one rim lock, lube one bead of the tire. Push down on the top of the tire and insert one side of the wheel and the rim lock into the bottom part of the tire. Begin levering the first bead on.
- Insert the second rim lock if your wheel uses two. Before installing the tube, inflate it to make sure there was no damage done during removal. Check the nut at stem area for tightness and look for cracks in the stem. Leave just enough air in the tube for installing so the tube holds its shape.
- Apply baby powder to the outside of the tube and inside the tire. This prevents the tube from chafing while in use.
- Install the tube in the tire carefully. Starting at the valve stem holes, evenly place the tube inside. Be sure the tube is not bunched up in any area or caught under the rim locks.
- Lube the bead with a mild soap and water solution and push a small section of it under the rim near the stem area. Insert one tire iron and start levering the tire bead on, taking very small bites with each iron. Stick the iron in just far enough past the rim edge being careful not to catch the tube.
- With each bite, check that the bead of both sides of the tire is as far down in the well of the rim as possible.
- After the final bead area is installed, be sure the rim locks and valve stem move freely.
- Inflate the tire and seat both beads. Should the beads not seat properly, do not over-inflate. Re-lube the bead areas with soapy solution and re-inflate until seated properly.
- After the tire is fully inflated, let the air out again then re-inflate. This allows the tube to settle inside the tire.
- Tighten the rim locks and adjust the tire pressure.
- Removal of the valve stem nut at the end is optional. If the tire does go low and the rim lock is loose, not having a nut on the valve stem will him it move (inside the rim) instead of wanting to be torn off.
- Put the tube in the new tire and add 5 lbs air.
- Place rim lock on rim and hand tighten so rimlock in against rim.
- Soap tire bead 50/50 mix.
- Line up valve stem and tire with hole in rim.
- Push tire down till stem is through hole in rim and hand tighten nut.
- Work bottom bead of tire onto rim (ZipTy irons are the best I've seen).
- Pry tire up to reveal rim lock, loosen and allow rim lock up over tire bead.
- Little more soap.
- Pry top bead of tire onto rim to where it stays without holding it on with tire iron.
- Slip on a pair of vise grips to hold tire down (I'm way past scratches).
- Some like the bead buddy.
- Pry the tire on.
- Make sure rim lock is seated properly.
- Little more soap and inflate to about 40lbs.
- Make sure bead is seated.
- Tighten rim lock.
- Set air pressure.
Tire Installation Procedure by RideRed
I follow the basics but what really helps besides using a warm tire is a set of full-size tire irons for leverage. I also have a tool called a Stem-Eze, which is made by a buddy of mine, that I use to pull the valve stem through the rim instead of fighting with it. Here are my tuner's tips:
- I let my tires sit in the good 'ole Arizona sun for at least an hour before trying to install them.
- Sprinkle baby powder liberally inside the tire.
- Spray the beads with WD40.
- Place the tube inside the tire.
- Attach the Stem-Eze to the valve.
- Place the rim over the tire and thread the Stem-Eze through the valve stem hole in the rim.
- Work around with the tire irons taking a small section at a time.
Tire Removal & Installation Procedure by RJT
Removal: Pull left bead off left side, right bead off right side. Rim drops to middle of tire and can now be easily removed.
Reinstall: Set rim lock loose, light pressure in tube, stem through rim, 3 tire irons (two to hold rim, one to install). Rim in center of tire (reverse order of removal). Left bead over left side, right bead over right side. A little soap where required. Do not use WD-40 or other oils as you will end up with a greasy mess.
Tips from Zeniac
Tire Lube: My father had a garage when I was growing up and we always used Ru-glide when mounting and dismounting tires. It it designed to provide "the slide" and dries with a bit of "stickiness" to help prevent slippage afterwards. It works great. A gallon jug costs about $6.00 and will last you for years.
Tire Irons: I also use slim irons with only a small 'hook' at the end that barely cling on to the rim. I can't remember where I bought them but they are available all over the place. I use 3 of them, the extra one to assist with holding the bead from running out on me, there are little devices available to do this now, but I have tire changing down to a science and can remove and replace a tire and tube in about 20 minutes without a lot of sweat.
Tire Balancer: I have also rigged up a homemade balancer by using 2 five gallon pails and a axle rod. It is crude but surprisingly effective.
Pull Tires & Inspect: For those that have the tires changed in the shop, I find that pulling the wheels off the bike gives me a chance to do a close inspection of brake components, rims, spokes, chain and sprockets and check nut and bolt torques. I like to pull the chain off the bike and clean it real well and re-lubricate. If time allows I also do a good cleaning of the suspension components and inspect for wear. I also will pull the front forks off, replace fluids, check the head bearings and re-align.
Do It Yourself: Taking the time to learn to change your tires will provide you with an ideal time to also check your other components and provides that additional comfort of knowing the job was done right.