There are numerous aftermarket high output stators available for the Honda XR400R. I opted for a brand new 200w unit. The stock stator is capable of putting out 80-100w from the lighting coils. I wanted more because I was installing dual headlights, and possibly other electrical accessories in the future, like maybe a 12" subwoofer and amplifier!

My installation went as follows:

1. Drain the oil out of the engine or find a way to support the bike while it lays on its side, to avoid oil draining into the stator/flywheel area.
2. Disconnect the electrical wires coming from the stator to the wiring harness, which is a plug (green and yellow/blue) and four single wires (brown, pink/black, pink and yellow. Remove the wire harness from the two clamps holding it onto the frame and above the sprocket cover.
3. Removing the gear shifter. Then loosen and remove the nine bolts and one nut holding the left crankcase cover. If it is stuck after the hardware is removed, use a rubber mallet and gently tap around the outside to loosen. Do not pry the cover off, as this will damage the mating surfaces.
4. Remove bolts holding the wiring harness clamps. There are three bolts total; one holding the grommet clamp and two holding the ignition pulse generator. Next loosen and remove the three stator bolts.
5. Before installing the new stator, completely clean the mating surfaces of the engine and cover. I like to use gasket cleaner or carb cleaner and a good scraper, found at any local hardware or auto parts store. Note: removing the dowel pins will help when scraping the mating surfaces.
6. Put thread-lock on the three stator bolts and install the stator into the cover. Install and tighten the remaining three bolts with their respective covers, again with thread-lock. Make sure when routing the wire harness to keep in under the stator so the flywheel doesn't rub against it.
7. Next clean the mating surfaces of the engine case and cover. With a new gasket (Honda P/N: 11395-KCY-671) and thread-lock, install the cover on the engine and torque all nine bolts and the one nut to 7ft-lbs.
8. Route the stator wire harness the same way as the stock one, along through the sprocket cover clamp and the side frame clamp. Don't forget to put thread-lock on the nuts and bolts.
9. Here is the most confusing part, connecting the old to the new. I have devised a chart with a dual sport kit that should help:




	Stator to Stock or DS Wire Harness	Stock Wire Harness	DS Wire Harness
W I R E	Green & Yellow/Blue	Green & Yellow/Blue
	Brown	Brown
	Red/Black	Pink/Black
	Green	(a) Pink	(b) Yellow
	White	(a) Yellow	(b) Yellow



10. If you followed the dual sport kit wiring, you will have two open wires (a). I suggest taping them up because the new rectifier is part of the dual sport kit, which the two yellow wires (b) connect to.
11. Recheck that everything is in its proper place, and all fasteners are tight. Put oil back into the engine, if drained. Now the fun part, fire it up and see the difference in light output. I put in new bulbs, and wow! You now have 200-watts of power to play with! Bring on the sound system!

Credits: Article written and submitted by Robb Nelson. Edited by 4Strokes.com

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