Parts List

1. Gold Valve Emulator Kit (Race Tech P/N: FEGV 3501 $139.99)
2. Progressive Springs (Progressive Suspension P/N: 11-1136 Approximately $70.00)
3. 3.1 quarts ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) from an auto parts store at $1.50 a quart

Procedure

1. Remove front wheel assembly.
2. Loosen top 2 pinch bolts on both upper trees.
3. Remove fork caps.
4. Loosen bottom 2 pinch bolts on both lower trees.
5. Pull each fork leg assembly down and out of the trees.
6. Dump oil, springs, and spacers out and let the forks drain.
7. If you don't have an impact wrench, take the tubes to an auto repair shop and have a mechanic "buzz" the dampening rod bolts out. If you have an impact wrench, "buzz" them out yourself. These bolts are located on the bottom of the fork legs.
8. Carefully turn the tubes up-side-down and tap on a piece of wood to get the dampening rod to come out. Don't hurt the sealing rings.
9. Follow Race Tech's instructions to modify the dampening rods.
10. Once the dampening rods are done, drop them back in the fork tubes and go back to your mechanic (or do it yourself) and "buzz" the bolts back in.
11. Reinstall the fork tubes into the trees and snug the pinch bolts on LOWER trees only.
12. Drop the valves in.
13. Put the front wheel assembly back on.
14. Rock bike forward to compress the forks all the way and block rear wheel up so forks stay compressed. A tie-down strap may help here.
15. Pour the oil (ATF) into the tubes until you have approximately 5" from the top.
16. Unblock the rear wheel and rock the bike forwards and backwards about 10 times.
17. Re-compress the fork, block the rear again, and check the oil level. Add oil to 4.75" from the top. Keep repeating this procedure until the level doesn't change. This may take repeating 3 or 4 times for 30-40 full strokes.
18. Once you have the level right, drop the springs in. It doesn't matter which way you put the springs in.
19. Cut 2 each 1/4" spacers from the PVC pipe provided with the springs.
20. Use the original washers on top of the springs, then the PVC spacers, now the washer that came with the kit.
21. Put the caps back on and tighten the top pinch bolts.
22. Check all bolts and adjust the brakes if needed.
23. Adjust the Race Sag
24. Now go for the best ride you've ever had!

Credits: Article written and submitted by New Old Stuff and edited by 4Strokes.com

Installation and Testing by Doug

Installation

Price-wise things are pretty much as New Old Stuff mentioned. Living in California I got next day service for the standard price.

Disassembly on my 200 reveals that Honda scrimped on the spring, putting in a 17 7/8" spring and a 5 5/8" spacer tube. The spring from Progressive Suspension was as long as the Honda spring and spacer combined. Valving for the fork fluid in the Honda is accomplished by the usual lower fixed orifice compression holes (4), upper smaller rebound orifices, and directional tubing. In step 9 above the directions say to enlarge the existing compression holes by drilling them out with a 5/16" drill and adding two more holes. This effectively eliminates any restriction on compression and puts the task of controlling fluid flow on Race Tech's Gold Valve Emulator. This clever device allows you to set a spring's force against a small dime-sized cover regulating flow during fork compression while fluid flow during extension pushing against a quarter sized "door" only must overcome a very weak spring. So a rider's weight and type of terrain determine the spring preload and the rapid rebound always pushes the same item, the tire and wheel.

Testing

The first thing one notices is that the front-end feels light. I think this is the result of less handlebar movement to jar the rider's hands while riding over small bumps and dips. With increased speed I did some trail riding and found the bike more responsive to changes in direction. I think that's due to the tire spending less time in the air and more time on the ground - Gold Valve at work.

Credits: Article written and submitted by Doug and edited by 4Strokes.com