1. Check right footpeg bolts for tightness on a regular basis.
2. The air filter is held securely in place by the left side panel. Be sure the front lower clip has adequate tension. It can be bent or damaged by riders boot or other impacts which allows not enough tension on the air fitter and can result in dirt by-passing the air filter at the front lower comer.
3. With only a 2-quart oil capacity, usage becomes more critical (1 pint low is a 25% reduction in total capacity). Be sure to check oil levels at 200 to 300 mile intervals. To get a proper dip-stick reading the engine must be left at idle for 20 to 30 seconds. Idle in to a gas pit in which you plan to check the oil.
4. A stock XR650R will run better on pump gas than a high octane race fuel which needs a higher compression ratio to be effective.
5. Do not use oversize discs or our spare wheels will not interchange. Our pit spare front wheels are all XR600R front wheels that will fit onto a 650 when used with our (pit provided) wheel spacers.
6. Keep the rear wheel adjusted as far forward as tire clearance allows. The bike turns better, handles better, and is more stable with the wheel adjusted closer to the swing arm pivot.
7. The stock chain uses a staked/clip-less master link (endless chain). Using a chain with a master-link is probably asking for a race failure. A bike with this much torque will break conventional clip-type master-links.
8. Honda sells a DID ERV2 chain (O-Ring with staked master-link). DID520ERV2-120 is the part number, 4092334 is the Honda code. It is expensive but is the best chain available. We have been using this grade of chain since 1994. A special tool is required for staking the master-link (also available at your Honda dealer). The stock XR650R chain is also very high quality and meets or exceeds the ERV2 strength measurements.
9. The rear fender bolts tend to come loose and should be checked regularly or loctited.
10. Inspect on a regular basis the spring-loaded part attached to the choke plate on the rear intake carburetor opening. If the spring fatigues (from excess running with the choke in the on or half on position), it can break which will ultimately lead to the flapper being drawn into the combustion chamber and could cause an engine failure. The flapper and spring can be removed from the choke plate without choke plate removal.
11. For optimum suspension performance overall machine balance is critical. Example: forks will have a harsh deflective character when the rear rides too low into the stroke. Pay careful attention to setup and rider sag. We have found that between 95 and 100 mm seems to be the best to keep proper front to rear balance.
12. Final drive ratio of 14/45 seems to be best suited for SCORE or B.I.T.D. events offering a smoother power delivery and the best (forwards) wheel placement.
13. Remove the brass reserve from the petcock and run in the on position.
14. Install a second rear rim lock in the rear wheel. (Ref: Rim Lock / Bead Lock Installation)
15. Safety wire spokes in both wheels after break-in (tighten spokes and balance wheels also).
16. Do not use a rear mousse or tire Insert. Use only a heavy-duty tube.
17. If you use the stock fuel tank you must remove the white plastic insert so that our dump cans are able to completely fill your tank.
18. If you have experienced a boil-over situation with your coolant, consider switching radiator caps with a 1.8 or 1.6 rating (stock is 1.1). Remember this liquid cooled bike should not sit and idle for long periods without having airflow through the radiators.

Credits: Tips submitted by a guest of Honda XR.com and edited by 4Strokes.com.