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4Strokes.com Honda Technical: Electrical Relocation Mod for the XR650L By Ryan
4Strokes.com Honda Technical: Electrical Relocation Mod for the XR650L By Ryan

I just wanted to put this out there for someone who, like me, searched frantically on how to relocate all the electrical stuff into the airbox or whatever for the XR650L. I found bits and pieces of info but no one willing to share and no pictures or anything to help me out. I lost weight. I couldn't sleep at night. It almost cost me my job, and my marriage. So, that being said, I fumbled around enough to do it. And it was ever easy! I couldn't believe how easy it was. Really. "But Ryan," you say, "I suck with tools." Me too. Read on.

First off, I took off the whole rubber box thing where it was all housed. I trashed the bracket and built a different one to hold the box under the rear fender, behind the seat. I'm running 17" wheels so I didn't have a problem with rubbing. But, it was a bitch to work on and looked ugly. So just to clarify... don't try that. It doesn't work. What DOES work, is this:

  1. Buy a foam pod type air filter, similar to what UNI offers. It was like $14. The one I got is gray and has a 2.5" inlet. The whole thing is about 3.5" long. This wasn't a special order, this wasn't some part number I had to look up, it is a universal pod filter that was sitting on the shelf with a million other filters at the local shop. If they don't have it, they can get it. It's not bike specific, it's not some holy grail to look for. It's a UNI pod filter with a 2.5" inlet. (This all assumes you know the pros/cons to a foam filter. I ride on the street so fine dust/water isn't an issue.) I went to look for a K&N cone filter at Pep-Boys and spent half an hour with the guy both of us looking through books, and didn't find anything that would fit. I'm sure there might be something that works because I'm pretty sure I've seen it, but haven't come across the exact part number or whatever. Don't stress, this is not a hard thing to find. I set out all day to find a filter to work and sure enough there's piles of them at your local shop.
  2. Take out your stock or aftermarket filter. Throw it against the wall for dramatic effect. Take out your filter bracket arm things (they pop out of their sleeves like nothing).
  3. For everything to fit, I had to cut off two things in the airbox. The first was the hose/bag thing that goes from the hard box to the carb. It looks like a tumor. I used an extra long Sawzall blade to precisely chop it into a million pieces. Cutting this off allows the filter to fit. If you wanted to be cooler than me, you could unscrew that whole plate that it is mounted to and build a plate to seal it up. Go for it. Let me know how that works for you. The second thing I needed to cut was the lip that goes across the top of the airbox opening. It is slightly curved. The stock battery BARELY does not fit due to this thing. Again, the delicate motion of my Sawzall finesse finished it quickly.
  4. Take all the crap out of the battery box thing. You have to unscrew two Philips head screws that hold the fuse block on. You have to pull out the rubber grommet thingy's that hold the wires that enter the box in place. Take a deep breath. Say it with me, "I can do it." Don't forget the CDI! He is a sneaky beast and wants to stay camouflaged in the box.
  5. Wow! You're on fire! Go inside and call your friends. Boast to them about your amazing mechanical skillz (and you have to say it with a Z).
  6. Stuff those parts in the airbox. Yes, stuff is the right word. I don't even remember the order, but with 2 minutes of finagling the parts, they fit. Hint: the battery goes in last. I don't know why people are buying different smaller batteries for this step. I guess you could, but I didn't and I'm fine. One less thing to worry about.
  7. I was hungry so I made a sandwich. I toasted two pieces of white bread and microwaved some bacon. That already-cooked microwave bacon is really good! Twenty seconds and it's ready. Seriously! I got out some sliced turkey and then mustard. With 2 minutes of finagling the parts all fit. I don't remember the order of this either, but it worked. Hint: the bread goes on last. Another Hint: you can skip this step if you want.
  8. Put your side cover back on. It should fit. If it doesn't, don't cry. Come back to the garage a week later with a clear head. Re-finagle (yes, that's a technical term) the parts till the side cover fits flush against the airbox and battery.
  9. Put your key in. Assuming the bike doesn't blow up and the headlight turns on, you have succeeded. If the bike blows up, supaflyryan is not responsible. And also if you get sick from your sandwich. TA-DA! (drum roll... fanfare... etc...) You did it! Wow! That wasn't that hard at all. I told you. Now you have a sleek looking bike, 0.480192 more horsepower, and no ugly box hanging off your bike like a goiter. I cut my side panels to look snazzy, or you can buy an XR600 side panel that fits flush if you like the Dumbo effect under the rear fender. If you have any questions, please let me know! I hope this can help out a poor soul who is lost in this world trying to move his battery. I promise it won't kill you.

- Ryan (supaflyryan)

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