I'm so glad I didn't get a road legal dual sport kit because I did
everything myself for a whole lot less money. You should be able
to do everything yourself for a small fraction of the cost of a
new dual sport kit. Here is my take:
| 1. |
The first thing you should
do is go down to your local Motor Vehicle Department or check out
their Website, or check the Dual Sport Requirements Per State document
in Tech section of 4Strokes.com
and learn exactly what is required to make your dirt bike road legal.
It varies state-to-state, and then use that to determine what will
need to be done. You can also check our forums
for dual sport topics. |
 |
| 2. |
 |
You
can easily get a three-wire (for running lights) socket to
power a brake and running light. I modified my two-wire
brake light socket by simply soldering in a third wire to
power a two-filament bulb, maintaining the running light and
gaining a brake light. I ran this third wire in the
existing plastic sheath. |
| 3. |
I would suggest getting only one
brake light switch, a hydraulic switch for the rear brake.
My street bike only used the rear brake for turning on the
brake light. Do you really need the light to come on
with the front brake too? If you do a search on the
Internet for "hydraulic
brake light switch" you'll come up with many
Websites that sell a hydraulic brake light switch to fit your existing brake line.
There are typically two different kinds -- one for Brembo and
one for Japanese. They sell for $20. |
 |
| 4. |
I got some nice low profile turn
signals, but haven't had a need to install/wire them in the
state I am located now. You could easily wire them in and
install a blinker. You can also get a street-bike style
switch assembly for about $60. |
| 5. |
Keeping the factory headlight is
fine. Doing so will not need boosting the alternator output.
However, does your Motor Vehicle Department say the headlight must be
Motor Vehicle Department (DOT) approved? While most police will not be checking for this approval, it
is something to keep in mind. An upgrade may be desired if
you don't want to take your chances, although I'd be surprised
if a cop was looking for a headlight to be Motor Vehicle Department
(DOT) approved. Be sure to check your state requirement for a
hi/low beam. If a hi/low beam is required you will need
to wire in that switch also. |
| 6. |
 |
No battery is needed unless,
as stated above, your Motor Vehicle Department requires a headlight to be
illuminated with the engine off. If so, the solution is simple.
Just get
a small 12VDC battery pack and temporarily strap it on
somewhere. Get a big enough battery so it'll power the lights
for at least a couple minutes, just long enough to pass the
inspection and then whip that bad boy off. |
| 7. |
You should not need to boost the alternator
output (rewind the stator). Stock output will be fine if
all you're doing is powering the stock (35 watt) headlight,
taillight and brake light, and possibly the turn signals.
If you want higher output for aftermarket lights check the
Tech section for stator rewinding or have yours rewound by a
company. |
| 8. |
If there is a
requirement for the bike to have turn signals, then by all
means install them. You can even wire them and get them
working. I would at least wire them partially so a casual
inspection will show wires coming out of them, giving the
appearance that they are working and legitimate. Of course,
if an inspection is required, you'll have to have them
working (no big deal). Just use a single pull, double
throw switch. Just having them installed on the bike
might satisfy the authorities if you get pulled over. |
|
I have a 2002 XR250R with a stock (35 watt) headlight, running the stock taillight
(5 watts)
modified for use as a brake light (20 watts). No problem at all
- works fine. The headlight will dim a little with the brake
applied at slow/idle speeds, but no big deal. The light is
pretty dim for night time use. If I used it more at night I'd
install my 50 watt halogen light I got for this, but then I'd
want to rewind the stator as the stock 75 watt output (at 5K
RPM) will be pretty low. I would say keeping the stock
(35 watt) headlight along
with a taillight/brake light and turn signals will be okay.
The voltage may dip too low to power the turn signals if the
headlight and brake lights are on at the same time. If that's
the case, then I'd rewind the stator (several links appear
here). I would not use a battery (it's heavier, you'll
have to find a place to mount it, something else to go
bad/replace/maintain, and you'll have to convert the alternator AC
output to DC, which means adding a rectifier.) unless absolutely
necessary. |
Credits: Article written and
submitted by Stu and edited by 4Strokes.com
4Strokes.com
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