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Technical: Do-It-Yourself Dual Sport Kit by Stu |
I'm so glad I didn't get a road legal dual sport kit because I did
everything myself for a whole lot less money. You should be able
to do everything yourself for a small fraction of the cost of a
new dual sport kit. Here is my take:
The first thing you should do is go down to your local Motor
Vehicle Department or check out their Website, or check the
Dual Sport Requirements Per State document in Tech section
of 4Strokes.com and learn exactly what is required to make
your dirt bike road legal. It varies state-to-state, and then
use that to determine what will need to be done. You can also
check our Forums for
dual sport topics.
- You can easily get a three-wire (for running lights) socket
to power a brake and running light. I modified my two-wire
brake light socket by simply soldering in a third wire to power
a two-filament bulb, maintaining the running light and gaining
a brake light. I ran this third wire in the existing plastic
sheath.
I would suggest getting only one brake light switch, a hydraulic
switch for the rear brake. My street bike only used the rear
brake for turning on the brake light. Do you really need the
light to come on with the front brake too? If you do a search
on the Internet for "hydraulic brake light switch" you'll come
up with many Websites that sell a hydraulic brake light switch
to fit your existing brake line. There are typically two different
kinds -- one for Brembo and one for Japanese. They sell for
$20.
- I got some nice low profile turn signals, but haven't had
a need to install/wire them in the state I am located now.
You could easily wire them in and install a blinker. You can
also get a street-bike style switch assembly for about $60.
- Keeping the factory headlight is fine. Doing so will not
need boosting the alternator output. However, does your Motor
Vehicle Department say the headlight must be Motor Vehicle
Department (DOT) approved? While most police will not be checking
for this approval, it is something to keep in mind. An upgrade
may be desired if you don't want to take your chances, although
I'd be surprised if a cop was looking for a headlight to be
Motor Vehicle Department (DOT) approved. Be sure to check your
state requirement for a hi/low beam. If a hi/low beam is required
you will need to wire in that switch also.
- No battery is needed unless, as stated above, your Motor
Vehicle Department requires a headlight to be illuminated with
the engine off. If so, the solution is simple. Just get a small
12VDC battery pack and temporarily strap it on somewhere. Get
a big enough battery so it'll power the lights for at least
a couple minutes, just long enough to pass the inspection and
then whip that bad boy off.
- You should not need to boost the alternator output (rewind
the stator). Stock output will be fine if all you're doing
is powering the stock (35 watt) headlight, taillight and brake
light, and possibly the turn signals. If you want higher output
for aftermarket lights check the Tech section
for stator rewinding or have yours rewound by a company.
- If there is a requirement for the bike to have turn signals,
then by all means install them. You can even wire them and
get them working. I would at least wire them partially so a
casual inspection will show wires coming out of them, giving
the appearance that they are working and legitimate. Of course,
if an inspection is required, you'll have to have them working
(no big deal). Just use a single pull, double throw switch.
Just having them installed on the bike might satisfy the authorities
if you get pulled over.
I have a 2002 XR250R with a stock (35 watt) headlight, running
the stock taillight (5 watts) modified for use as a brake light
(20 watts). No problem at all - works fine. The headlight will
dim a little with the brake applied at slow/idle speeds, but
no big deal. The light is pretty dim for night time use. If I
used it more at night I'd install my 50 watt halogen light I
got for this, but then I'd want to rewind the stator as the stock
75 watt output (at 5K RPM) will be pretty low. I would say keeping
the stock (35 watt) headlight along with a taillight/brake light
and turn signals will be okay. The voltage may dip too low to
power the turn signals if the headlight and brake lights are
on at the same time. If that's the case, then I'd rewind the
stator (several links appear here). I would not use a battery
(it's heavier, you'll have to find a place to mount it, something
else to go bad/replace/maintain, and you'll have to convert the
alternator AC output to DC, which means adding a rectifier.)
unless absolutely necessary.
Credits: Article written and submitted by Stu and edited by
4Strokes.com
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